After decades of culinary dormancy, downtown Los Angeles is finally coming into its own, and leading the charge is chef John Sedlar’s Rivera. Glowing bottles and electronic murals illuminate a modern den where patrons are treated to Sedlar’s Southwest meets Spain infused tapas. A couple of hours before heading to the Clippers game across the street, three of us indulged in enough tapas to soak up the custom made cocktails.
The housemade nixtimal tortillas with “Indian butter” (guacamole) was a nice starter before we sunk our teeth into the real goods. The playa bar ceviche (ahi tuna, serranos, lime & avocado) was a little fishy for my tastes, but maybe I’m just used to eating my raw fish with soy sauce.
The chile pasilla relleno (pickled mild chile, burrata cheese, served chilled) was very good, but even better was the piquillos rellenos (stuffed spanish peppers, chorizo, golden raisins & gruyere). The choros al vapor (mussels, chorizo, aji amarillo-pisco broth) was fantastic and I will certainly be disappointed the next time I eat mussels that aren’t accompanied by chorizo. The tamal (braised pork short rib, seasonal mushrooms & guajillo sauce) was a fancy, but decent tamale. Finally, we closed with the mole (kurobuta pork chop, mole & peruvian sweet potato). Not a huge fan of mole sauce, but thankfully Rivera’s wasn’t a melted Hershey bar like many seem to be.
The chile pasilla relleno (pickled mild chile, burrata cheese, served chilled) was very good, but even better was the piquillos rellenos (stuffed spanish peppers, chorizo, golden raisins & gruyere). The choros al vapor (mussels, chorizo, aji amarillo-pisco broth) was fantastic and I will certainly be disappointed the next time I eat mussels that aren’t accompanied by chorizo. The tamal (braised pork short rib, seasonal mushrooms & guajillo sauce) was a fancy, but decent tamale. Finally, we closed with the mole (kurobuta pork chop, mole & peruvian sweet potato). Not a huge fan of mole sauce, but thankfully Rivera’s wasn’t a melted Hershey bar like many seem to be.
While the food was good to great, it’s the drinks that make Rivera exceptional. The bartenders are experts of mixology and delight in creating bespoke cocktails for those brave enough to roll the dice. The drink menu is akin to a J.R.R. Tolkien novel, each one so vibrant, fantastical and unexpected. Tequila and mescal are the spirits of choice and anchor many of the best cocktails, including my favorite, The Barbacoa. A mix of jalapeno, chipotle, ginger, red peppers, mescal and beef jerky garnish, the Barbacoa is the perfect blend of sweet, tart and spicy. Coming in close second is the whisky based Blood Sugar Sex Magic, an impossibly harmoniously blend of rye whiskey, red pepper, agave nectar and basil, that is a meal unto itself. Rivera is a welcome addition to the downtown scene that will have me coming back, not so much for the food, but for the drinks to wash it all down.
rating out of 5
Where:
1050 S. Flower St. #102
Los Angeles, CA 90015Our Dinner for Three: $154 + tip
With Drinks: $256
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