Saturday, March 6, 2010

Bouchon - Beverly Hills


I can’t believe I forgot to order oysters.  I had been thinking about them all day, but when I made the decision to try the escargot for the first time in my life, I lost all train of thought.  Nevertheless, I have no regrets because the escargot at Bouchon in Beverly Hills was not only edible, it was fantastic.  Ever since opening his world renowned restaurant, The French Laundry in Yountville, California, Chef Keller has been culinary royalty.  Keller’s latest restaurant, Bouchon in Beverly Hills (also in Yountville and Vegas) is his take on the casual French Bistro.  Here’s Keller in his own words.
French bistro food is my favorite - steak frites, a two-inch high quiche with bacon and onions, a salad with an egg on top finished with a perfect vinaigrette, a croque madame, some oysters and a glass of champagne. These are foods that represent the most important kind of cooking there is because they're rooted in tradition. So when I thought of opening a restaurant that's more casual than The French Laundry, I decided to explore and deepen the culinary heritage that I admire so much. A Bouchon can be, and should be, whatever you need it to be. It's a casual place, a social place, a place where people come to relax talk and to eat. A kind of home.

-Thomas Keller



The Mrs. and I began the evening with a glass of wine at Bar Bouchon, a tiny and separate bar on the first floor.  It’s a great place to share some small plates, but we were there for the real deal.  After an elevator ride to the second floor, we entered the main dining room that was buzzing with activity.  It definitely looks like a high end bistro in Paris. We were seated next to a fifty-something year old slime ball with a bevy of twenty-something year old beauties who were obviously using him for an expensive meal.  And after tasting the french onion soup, I can’t say that I blame them.  True to the bistro style, everything we ordered was relatively simple, loyal to tradition and just worked.  

For my main course I ordered the Gigot D’Agneau, a roasted leg of lamb with herb scented panisse,artichokes à la barigoule and lamb jus,  The Mrs. chose the Moules Au Safron, Maine bouchot mussels steamed with white wine, mustard and saffron served with French fries.  Although neither dish blew us away, we certainly appreciated the simple bistro food done right.  We’ll definitely be returning soon, and next time I won’t forget the oysters.

Rating out of 5

Where:
235 North Canon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90210

Our Dinner for Two: $102 + tip
With Drinks: $158


Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Rivera - Downtown Los Angeles


After decades of culinary dormancy, downtown Los Angeles is finally coming into its own, and leading the charge is chef John Sedlar’s Rivera.  Glowing bottles and electronic murals illuminate a modern den where patrons are treated to Sedlar’s Southwest meets Spain infused tapas. A couple of hours before heading to the Clippers game across the street, three of us indulged in enough tapas to soak up the custom made cocktails.  

The housemade nixtimal tortillas with “Indian butter” (guacamole) was a nice starter before we sunk our teeth into the real goods.  The playa bar ceviche (ahi tuna, serranos, lime & avocado) was a little fishy for my tastes, but maybe I’m just used to eating my raw fish with soy sauce.



The chile pasilla relleno (pickled mild chile, burrata cheese, served chilled) was very good, but even better was the piquillos rellenos (stuffed spanish peppers, chorizo, golden raisins & gruyere). The choros al vapor (mussels, chorizo, aji amarillo-pisco broth) was fantastic and I will certainly be disappointed the next time I eat mussels that aren’t accompanied by chorizo. The tamal (braised pork short rib, seasonal mushrooms & guajillo sauce) was a fancy, but decent tamale. Finally, we closed with the mole (kurobuta pork chop, mole & peruvian sweet potato).  Not a huge fan of mole sauce, but thankfully Rivera’s wasn’t a melted Hershey bar like many seem to be.

While the food was good to great, it’s the drinks that make Rivera exceptional.  The bartenders are experts of mixology and delight in creating bespoke cocktails for those brave enough to roll the dice.  The drink menu is akin to a J.R.R. Tolkien novel, each one so vibrant, fantastical and unexpected.  Tequila and mescal are the spirits of choice and anchor many of the best cocktails, including my favorite, The Barbacoa.  A mix of jalapeno, chipotle, ginger, red peppers, mescal and beef jerky garnish, the Barbacoa is the perfect blend of sweet, tart and spicy.  Coming in close second is the whisky based Blood Sugar Sex Magic, an impossibly harmoniously blend of rye whiskey, red pepper, agave nectar and basil, that is a meal unto itself.  Rivera is a welcome addition to the downtown scene that will have me coming back, not so much for the food, but for the drinks to wash it all down. 


rating out of 5

Where: 
1050 S. Flower St. #102
Los Angeles, CA 90015


Our Dinner for Three: $154 + tip
With Drinks: $256